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Revisions, Revisions, Revisions. Patternmaking the Dot Coat

Jan By: duellingdesigns3 Comments

Patternmaking the dot coat

Ch-Ch-Ch-Ch-Changes

I work hard during each design challenge to ensure my final design looks as close as possible to the design illustration readers vote for each month. But this month I veered away from the final design. I have three main reasons for these revisions.

The first reason, we have had quite a warm winter where I live in Canada, and I am not too eager to add another long coat to my wardrobe. A couple of months ago I made a fabulous oversized denim jacket that I adore so I am looking for a new challenge.

Reason two, I designed the original coat in 2010, and my tastes have changed. I still like most of the design elements, but the thought of sewing the coat as I designed it in 2010 does excite me like it used to then.

patternmaking the dot coat why I revised my design

Seeing Double

Reason three for revising the coat is that looking back I designed a yellow coat much like the one in my originally purposed design. The coat above was part of a lookbook I had made while I was at school. I noticed that the collar, sleeves and even the oversized button detail were very similar to the design I was supposed to be making this month.

Patternmaking the dot coat Revisions I made to design

Design Revisions

I considered making the coat in the original design illustration even though it was very similar to the yellow I had made earlier. I reasoned that it would save me time if I didn’t have to make the pattern from scratch. But then reason prevailed! The whole part of my blog is to learn and advance my skills, so I changed the design while trying to retain the main characteristics of the original design.

Main alterations:

  • changed collar style to a grown-on curved collar with neck darts for shaping
  • changed the contrast fabric circle inserts to be smaller and to be a gusset in the new kimono coat
  • changed to a looser kimono sleeve
  • on revised coat only one button is visible and the other closures are hidden (snaps)
  • shortened the coat (reason for altering the size of the circles)
  • moved pockets to side seam as when I shrank the circles they became too high for a natural pocket placement
  • curved the front of the hem as I think it will suit my body type better and echo the curve of the gusset

Front features in the patternmaking of the dot coat

Are You Happy Now?

Yes, yes, I am. I love the new collar of the toile. It is snug but not too tight, high without flopping over. I love the circle gussets. When the coat is worn on a human and not a mannequin the circles on the sleeves line up perfectly. Can you hear that? It is me patting myself on the back. Hee hee.

Back features in the patternmaking of the dot coat

A Few More Tweaks

I am still planning a few minor alterations to the pattern. I will keep the sleeves full-length for my final design. It might be warmer this winter, but it is still cold enough, that being the wimp that I am, I do not want ANY skin visible. I need to make it slightly looser at the hip or put in a back vent for ease of movement. My last conundrum is that I cannot decide which fabric in my stash to use. I KNOW that I do not want it to be the same colours as the original design illustration and I have narrowed it down to one of four choices. I am going to start sewing this week, so I had better decide. I think I will jump on Periscope and ask the talented people who watch their opinion too.

I would love to know what you think of the alterations I made to the original design. Let me know what you think in the comments below or on the Duelling Designs Facebook Page.

More from my site

  • Selecting Fabric for the Dot CoatSelecting Fabric for the Dot Coat
  • Balenciaga Inspired Winter Coat ChallengeBalenciaga Inspired Winter Coat Challenge
  • Sewing Book Reviews Part OneSewing Book Reviews Part One
  • My Favourite Videos about DenimMy Favourite Videos about Denim
  • Frakenpattern SkirtFrakenpattern Skirt
  • Curves Ahead – Patternmaking for the Second Chance Design ChallengeCurves Ahead – Patternmaking for the Second Chance Design Challenge

Comments

  1. 1

    Samina says

    Jan at 9:37 am

    Oh, Dawn! What lovely & pertinent modifications from the original! I love the circle gussets.
    Eagerly waiting to see the final coat.

    Reply
    • 2

      duellingdesigns says

      Jan at 10:54 am

      Thank you, Samina. After I finish up this week’s That Sewing Blab I am going to start making the final coat. I had better hurry, or it will be spring before I can wear it. Thanks for commenting Samina.

      Reply

Trackbacks

  1. The Big Dot Coat Reveal - Duelling Designs says:
    Mar at 3:11 pm

    […] I made this coat for two reasons. The first being that I have wanted to make this coat ever since I designed it in design class.  I have made coats since but in the back of my mind I knew I would sew this coat one day. When I design it, I was inspired by the voluminous coats that Balenciaga had created. During the patternmaking, I changed the coat a lot from the original design, and it was a smooth and easy process (I talk about the patternmaking in this post). […]

    Reply

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Hi my name is Dawn. I'm a blogger, pattern maker and co-host of That Sewing Blab. Join me on my journey of creative exploration through design and sewing. Read More…

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