I had a lot of fun working on the patterns for this month’s design brief. Part of the thrill of each design challenge is not knowing if you will be able to create a pattern that is similar to the original illustration. I am thrilled to say that think I nailed this challenge from design Brief to final garment. You can decide for yourself if I was successful.
I was not sure what would happen when one side of the skirt would have more volume than the other. I was also curious how much volume would be needed for both halves of the skirt. Would the right side be a straight skirt or an a-line? How much volume would the left side need, a quarter, half or full circle skirt?
Mini Mannequin Experiments
I decided as I wanted to experiment with all these factors that I should start my patternmaking with my half sized straight skirt blocks. Circle skirts use a lot of fabric and if I wanted to try different scenarios, making the toiles/muslins for the skirts on my mini mannequin made more sense.
I made toiles for the right side of the skirt that were made of an A-line and another as a straight skirt. I found that with the weight of the left side that the A-line looked better. The fuller left side took a bit more experimenting. I decided that I liked the fullness of the left side of the skirt when it was comprised of a half circle.
I know it gets confusing with the skirt having a right and left side, top and bottom, a-line and circle skirts, but hopefully, the diagrams will help you understand how I ended up “Frankenpatterning” the skirt. If it is still a bit hazy check out my Periscope broadcast below in which I discuss the patternmaking for this month’s design challenge.
Unforeseen Patternmaking Question
In all my initial questions for the patternmaking, I did not consider that the top and bottom layers might look better with different levels of fullness. I had set my mind to make the right side out of an A-line and the left side out of a half circle. When I used the same pattern to create the shorter top layer (see the above photo) I found that there was not enough fullness in the top layer. I decided to make the left side top layer a full circle. With this improvement, I was ready to make a full sized toile. The first toile turned out well, and I couldn’t wait to make the final garment.